Most manufacturers describe cranking the engine at normal cranking speed and holding the end of the plug wire 1/16'-1/8' or so from the High tension ignition systems depend on grounding of the points to complete the primary circuit. When the moveable point was shorted to the side with a screwdriver, the sparks stopped and the engine immediately started hitting regularly and running smoothly.The first test to perform with a no go before a frontal assault on the magneto is to determine if it is indeed the problem. While watching the mag with its side cover off and the engine running, I noticed a profusion of sparks between the movable point and its bore.В It obviously was not adequately grounded. A coil can be easily bench tested with a digital 10 megaohm impedance ohmmeter.Finally the engine started but ran roughly just as it did with the substitute magnetos. If either is out of specifications, the coil needs to be replaced. If a coil problem is suspected, measure the coilвЂ™s primary and secondary resistance with an ohmmeter.

Recently cleaned and painted ones will most likely be worse because the problem is compounded.To fix it I used a short length of small braided copper strap and soldered electrical eyelet terminals to it. Again, this is a pathway of lubricated moving parts, corroded or freshly painted surfaces.It appears to me that the ground path is a weak area on allВ WICO EKВ magnetos and could be a major contributor to cantankerousness of any engine on which it is used. Other parts of the path to ground are the clevis pin and clevis lever, the ignition point screwhead, and the magneto bracket. Arcing between the moving point and its bore is likely to result in increased wear as well, because of pitting on the sliding parts.

(NOTE: The small braided copper strap is readily available and sold in electronic stores as вЂњSolder WickвЂќ or вЂњWick UpвЂќ for desoldering electrical components. This strap insures a good continuous ground for the primary circuit.

How To Test A Magneto